Pricing Beauty - Ashley Mears

Pricing Beauty

Ashley Mears

出版时间

2011-09-13

ISBN

9780520270763

评分

★★★★★
书籍介绍

Sociologist Ashley Mears takes us behind the brightly lit runways and glossy advertisements of the fashion industry in this insider's study of the world of modeling. Mears, who worked as a model in New York and London, draws on observations as well as extensive interviews with male and female models, agents, clients, photographers, stylists, and others, to explore the economics and politics - and the arbitrariness - behind the business of glamour. Exploring a largely hidden arena of cultural production, she shows how the right 'look' is discovered, developed, and packaged to become a prized commodity. She examines how models sell themselves, how agents promote them, and how clients decide to hire them. An original contribution to the sociology of work in the new cultural economy, "Pricing Beauty" offers rich, accessible analysis of the invisible ways in which gender, race, and class shape worth in the marketplace.

目录
List of Illustrations
Acknowledgments
1. Entry
2. Economics of the Catwalk
3. Becoming a Look

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用户评论
模特是赢者通吃的高风险行业。圈内人通过对商业模特进行割裂和对立来确定自身品味的高低。追逐时尚如同追逐幻影,美正在于它的神秘与残忍。是汲汲于美,还是汲汲于财?这不过是一枚硬币的两面。干货不少,但废话更多。
5、6章写得最好。整体很好读,因为写得非常纪实文学(?),有很多个人化的感受在里面。但整个书其实理论层面有点脱节,大部分内容非常齐美尔,第6章又比较酷儿,给人感觉是作者的理论驾驭能力有点把控不住自己的期许,不过好在她也没什么理论野心……
放弃,无聊没劲cliche。
一个完全新鲜的领域的研究,能够以身参与到自己所研究的领域当中很棒,可能够抽离出来冷静研究问题才是真章。准备之后闲下来二刷吧。
作者太漂亮惹…
上学期回家的飞机上看了一半,隔壁座的美女看到了Kate Moss二字开始与我搭话,我们于是聊起与书无关的男人的话题,下飞机互加微信,奇妙的感觉、今天看完感觉,呃呃,这本书至少对普通读者来说话题够新鲜,但作为社会学质性研究看,数据足够丰富,于是没有理论拓展就可以理解了。但研究数据的呈现方式和叙事安排都有点blank,读起来好干、读完之后像是看了一篇很长的推送,最后除了认清“不要当模特”、“男人真的很坏”之外没有获得任何启示..
这本书的premise是:如何评价模特的look,如何给模特定价,这问题听起来是商业行为,背后是由服装行业复杂的社会关系网决定的。模特诸多castings、可能在最后一刻被drop option的焦虑很relatable;bookers和clients围绕edgy模特的buzz遵循Matthew effect of accumulated advantage;high-end ethnic models的两种类型:混血模特的minimal change & manifestation of ethnicity,exotic ethnicity;男性模特devalue their work (as display object)....
The best chapters are the first and the last. Other chapters are more about phenomenon than analysis and theory building, which really need to dig deeper.(By the way it took too long to finish, almost give up
对女模特比男模特薪酬高的解释有点意思 ,其他倒没有特别惊艳 手动涂半颗星给美丽的作者(浅薄
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