Take Ivy

Shosuke Ishizu, Toshiyuki Kurosu, Hajime Hasegawa

出版时间

2010-08-31

ISBN

9781576875506

评分

★★★★★
书籍介绍
Madras plaid, Top-Siders, seersucker shorts, highwater trousers, tweed jackets, Brooks Brothers, J. Press, and J. Crew. What comes to mind? Described by The New York Times as, “a treasure of fashion insiders,” Take Ivy was originally published in Japan in 1965, setting off an explosion of American-influenced “Ivy Style” fashion among students in the trendy Ginza shopping district of Tokyo. The product of four sartorial style enthusiasts, Take Ivy is a collection of candid photographs shot on the campuses of America’s elite, Ivy League universities. The series focuses on men and their clothes, perfectly encapsulating the unique academic fashion of the era. Whether lounging in the quad, studying in the library, riding bikes, in class, or at the boathouse, the subjects of Take Ivy are impeccably and distinctively dressed in the finest American-made garments of the time. Take Ivy is now considered a definitive document of this particular style, and rare original copies are highly sought after by “trad” devotees worldwide. A small-run reprint came out in Japan in 2006 and sold out almost immediately. Now, for the first time ever, powerHouse is reviving this classic tome with an all-new English translation. Ivy style has never been more popular, in Japan or stateside, proving its timeless and transcendent appeal. Take Ivy has survived the decades and is an essential object for anyone interested in the history or future of fashion.
作者简介
Teruyoshi Hayashida was born in the fashionable Aoyama District of Tokyo, where he also grew up. He began shooting cover images for Men's Club magazine after the title's launch. Very sophisticated in style and a connoisseur of gourmet food, he is known for his homemade, soy-sauce-marinated Japanese pepper (sansho), and his love of gunnel tempura and Riesling wine. Shosuke Ishizu is the representative director of Ishizu Office. Originally born in Okayama Prefecture, after graduating from Kuwasawa Design School he worked in the editorial division at Men's Club until 1960 when he joined VAN Jacket Inc. He established Ishizu Office in 1983, and now produces several brands including Niblick. Toshiyuki Kurosu was raised in Tokyo. He joined VAN Jacket Inc. in 1961, where he was responsible for the development of merchandise and sales promotion. He left the company in 1970 and started his own business, Cross and Simon. After the dissolution of his brand, he began appearing on the legendary variety show Asayan on TV Tokyo as a regular and soon gained popularity. He is also an active writer and intellectual. Hajime (Paul) Hasegawa is from Hyogo Prefecture. After studying in the U.S., Hasegawa returned to Japan in 1963 to join VAN Jacket Inc. At VAN, he was responsible for advertising and PR. For the production of Take Ivy, Hasegawa was the main coordinator and interpreter on the ground. He has since held several managerial positions in Japan and abroad and currently serves as executive director for Cosmo Public Relations Corporation.
AI导读
编辑书评
  • 本书的真正价值不在于展示‘好品味’,而在于揭示‘品味的建构过程’。它是一本关于文化挪用的教科书,证明了边缘中心如何通过凝视核心,创造出一种比原生更纯粹的风格幻象。争议在于其真实性:它呈现的不是真实的美国,而是日本人梦想中的美国。但这种虚构恰恰成就了它的经典地位——因为它提供了一套可执行的审美乌托邦。对于想理解东亚时尚如何受西方影响的读者,此书必读;但对于寻求当下穿搭指导的人,它更像是一件精致的博物馆展品,好看却难穿。
  • 作为编辑,我认为《Take Ivy》是时尚摄影史上一次成功的‘策展’行为。它超越了单纯的街拍,成为一种意识形态的传播工具。局限在于其静态视角,无法反映动态的社会变迁,且容易让人陷入对‘精英表象’的盲目崇拜。相比同类时尚画册,它的独特之处在于其社会学深度与历史转折点的意义。它不值得作为日常翻看的穿搭手册,但绝对值得作为研究文化流动与身份认同的案例精读。适合在深夜独自翻阅,感受那个时代特有的秩序感与浪漫气息,而非用于解决明早穿什么的问题。
核心看点
  • 本书并非传统意义上的时尚设计画册,而是一部社会学视角的影像档案。它记录了1960年代美国常春藤盟校学生的真实着装状态,捕捉了从校园生活到休闲运动的瞬间。其核心价值在于展示了‘Ivy Style’如何从一种偶然的日常穿着,被日本摄影师提炼为具有仪式感的审美符号,进而反向定义了战后日本的男性时尚标准。
  • 作为VAN Jacket品牌创始人石津谦介等人的心血之作,本书是‘美式风格日本化’的关键转折点。它通过 candid photography(抓拍)手法,打破了当时日本社会对西方服饰刻板、拘谨的认知,证明了休闲与优雅可以共存。书中展示的格纹、泡泡纱、乐福鞋等元素,不仅是单品罗列,更是一套完整的生活方式提案,影响了整整一代东京青年的自我表达。
  • 本书在视觉人类学层面具有独特地位。它没有采用专业模特的摆拍,而是聚焦于普通学生在图书馆、划船俱乐部或草坪上的自然状态。这种‘去表演化’的记录方式,赋予了服装以生命力和场景感,让读者看到的不是衣服本身,而是穿着者所处的阶级氛围与文化语境。它是理解20世纪中期全球文化流动中,美国精英文化如何被东方重新解读的重要文本。
读者共识
  • 多数读者认可其作为‘男装圣典’的历史地位,认为它对个人穿衣风格有深远影响,尤其是那种斯文、干净且略带书卷气的形象塑造。然而,也有相当一部分人指出,就服装本身的时髦度而言,它显得平庸甚至过时,认为这是日本人过度美化美国校园生活的结果,实际美国人的穿着远不如照片中那般精致。
  • 评论中普遍存在一种‘名气大于内容’的争议。部分资深时尚爱好者认为,若剥离掉VAN Jacket的品牌营销光环和常春藤名校的社会标签,单看摄影技术和服装搭配,本书并无惊艳之处。他们批评这是一种‘日用而不知’的美国风格被日本人强行赋予意义的现象,带有浓厚的文化误读色彩。
  • 读者共识还体现在对‘规则感’的调侃上。许多人感叹日本人将随性的美式休闲变成了条条框框的教条,认为这种严肃对待时尚的态度既令人敬佩又略显滑稽。尽管存在争议,大家仍承认其在记录60年代美国青年风貌方面的史料价值,以及作为复古灵感来源的不可替代性。
用户评论
美式校园,终于寄到
就VAN jacket历史性宣传策略的地位来看,要给五星
常春藤服饰风格的圣典
米国人的各种风格都是霓虹人演绎出来的吧,他们自己是日用而不知
短袖衬衫和格子裤也挺好看啊。。。但常青藤不适合我这样的瘦子。。。
日常穿搭
留藏,日本人真的學什麼都那麼認真!
圣经
我觉得美式复古还是比阿美咔叽帅的,后者有点太衣服穿人的感觉了
人上人
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